MIR Corporation's Travel Log: Trans-Siberian Railway - Days 6-7: Novosibirsk, Aboard Train
MIR clients Helge Pedersen and Karen Ofsthus ride the rails of the fabled Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow to UlaanBaatar on MIR's Trans-Siberian private rail journey as they check in from each stop with stories, photos and video.
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Days 6-7: Novosibirsk, Aboard train
July 6-7, 2008
Starting Location: Ekaterinburg, Russia
Ending Location: Novosibirsk, Russia
Total Distance Traveled: 2,052 miles (3,303 kilometers)
Aboard the Trans-Siberian Express, we are pampered, pampered, pampered! Quite frankly, I could get used to this. Helge and I are trying to figure out how, after we return home, we can train our cats Beemer and Spyder to serve us in such a way!
The Golden Eagle is spectacular! 21 cars are pulled by a powerful locomotive, and carry 145 passengers and 70 hard-working staff. Our two restaurant cars are decorated in a soft gold and white décor; crystal, silver and flowers adorn linen-covered tables. We sit upon beautifully embroidered chairs. And the food... oh the food! Three gourmet meals are served each day, carefully and lovingly prepared by the chef and his staff. Delicious Russian soups have been our favorite: borscht, solyanka and rassolneka are served with hilarious historical commentary on their origins.
Our waitstaff, Natalya, Alexander and Artur, greet us at each meal. I have to admit, I've been working on Alexander. So characteristically Russian, he seems to have a tough exterior. But I know it's just a ruse. It's taken me four days, but today I managed to get him to smile. And Artur? After the first night on the train, I awoke very early... 4am to be exact. I headed to the bar car to read, and ran into Artur who speaks not a lick of English. My Russian, of course, is non-existent, but that didn't matter. After some hand signs and a delirious round of Pictionary on my notepad, we were laughing like crazy, slapping each other's arms and shaking our heads. I like Artur. He now serves us extra wine.
The bar car, with its comfy red velvet lounge chairs, piano and mini library is my favorite hang out. This is where I write, read and gaze out the window at the passing Siberian taiga: a never-ending expanse of forest comprised of birch, pine, larch, and hemlock. Huge meadows of purple lupine and dainty Queen Anne's lace, the size of a dinner plate, dot the landscape and quaint wooden homes with prettily painted shutters, called "dachas," can be seen here and there. Most possess large gardens of potatoes and other vegetables.
After a scrumptious and filling breakfast we leave the train and head out for the afternoon's excursion. Yesterday, It was Novosibirsk, the largest Siberian city.
Novosibirsk was founded in 1893 during construction of the railway, the main artery and lifeblood of the region. Over 1.6 million people live here, enduring bitterly cold winters at minus 45 degrees Celsius and a short, but hot summer month. Yes I said "month." Summer in Novosibirsk is in July. Come August, icy winds begin to blow, and Siberians bundle up for the coming long winter. Prior to WWII, Novosibirsk had no industry other than agricultural production. Flour and dairy production aided in the survival of her citizens.
During the war however, large industry was moved here from the European third of Russia. Huge factories produced uniforms, some four million pieces and lots of war materials like tanks and airplanes, bullets and mines. They also produced locomotives... massive locomotives to carry goods, people, and an enormous Russian army.
Margarita, our exceptional local guide in Novosibirsk, took us to the Railway Museum to see for ourselves the many types of locomotives and carriage cars produced in Russia. There were 1st Class carriage cars, wallpapered and embroidered for the elite. There were 4th Class cars, lined with beautiful pine and hosting a wood burning stove to ward off the chill for the sixty men, women and children traveling many weeks across the Siberian plain. There were gigantic steel locomotives, probably 50 of them, representing different eras in Russian railway history.
Most interesting was the medical car. This car served the soldiers returning from the front, many with severe injuries. A primitive surgery and hospital ward were enclosed inside. One could just imagine doctors and nurses frantically trying to save lives and hearing the groans of the wounded as the train clacked its way down the track, away from danger and toward home. I wondered what they did with those who did not survive.
After a visit to Akademgorodok, a preeminent scientists' enclave, and the Museum of Minerals, we were back on board the Golden Eagle.
A few hours later, after another carefully prepared dinner, we turn in for the night in our spacious cabin. Our cabin attendant has already turned down the beds, folded back the comforter, fluffed the pillows and provided us with clean towels, ready for the morning and a fresh start to another day on the train.
Tomorrow we'll enjoy a BBQ along the shores of the "pearl of Russia": mystical Lake Baikal. In the meantime, I'm going to work on that training program for our cats.
Photos from this leg of the tour:
A powerful locomotive at the Railway Museum
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Locomotives are well cared for
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An interesting car at the train museum
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A visit to the mineral museum
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The Golden Eagle arrives to carry us away
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Michel Behar gives a lecture on Russian history
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Alexander serves us wonderful meals
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Artur keeps the wine flowing
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Massive soldier monument in Lenin Square
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Warm and friendly, Margarita is a terrific guide
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A slideshow with more photos from this leg of the tour:
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