MIR Corporation's Travel Blog:
Treasures of the Trans-Caucasus
Follow along with MIR Corporation Tour Manager Devin Connolly as she accompanies MIR clients on MIR's Treasures of the Trans-Caucasus small group tour.
View what other past MIR travelers have had to say about Georgia.
Days 14-16: Khor Virap, Garni, Geghard, Lake Sevan
October 12-14, 2008
The next day, we headed due south, almost to the Turkish border, to visit Khor Virap Monastery. This is the closest we would get to Mt. Ararat on our journey, so the fact that it was once again out from behind the clouds was especially fortunate for us. On our way back to Yerevan, we stopped at Tashir, my favorite market in the Caucasus. Located in a large building that resembles a hangar, Tashir is a vibrant market with vendors of all kinds coexisting under one roof; fruit and vegetable growers, lavash (flatbread) makers, butchers, bulk food and dried fruit sellers all call out for passers-by to pay attention to their wares. The vendors are all quite friendly and many offer samples, if appropriate. Though we tried to be mindful of the fact that our next stop was for lunch, it was hard to resist the temptation of candied peanuts, dried apricots and bulk chocolate as we nibbled our way through Tashir.
We returned to Yerevan to reset our course, now heading east to the town of Garni to visit the 1st century pagan temple of the same name. The Temple of Garni is a Hellenic structure that sits atop the Avan Gorge, with a ruined Roman bath house right next door. While on the grounds, we were treated to a private, a capella vocal performance by a quartet of female Armenian singers. They sang several songs, some religious and some folk, with their beautiful voices echoing off the temple walls. Just beyond Garni, we visited Geghard Monastery, featuring a church that had been carved out of rock in the 13th century. The rock church is a two-level structure, and the acoustics in the upper chamber are phenomenal. There's a cold, eerie feeling in the church that stands in stark contrast to the brightness and warmth outside - it's otherworldly, and that's one of the many things I love about Geghard.
The following day was Sunday, which meant the best day to visit the Vernisage outdoor market in the center of Yerevan. Just like the Dry Bridge Market in Tbilisi, there is an art market component and a flea market component to the Vernisage. The one noticable difference is that the Vernisage offers far more souvenirs than its Georgian counterpart, and a better range of them. Of the three countries on this itinerary, Armenia is the clear winner in terms of souvenir availability, quality and range. In Azerbaijan, traditional souvenirs are virtually nonexistent, and though souvenirs are available in Georgia, they are not nearly as prevalent or plentiful as in Armenia. Travelers often express disappointment at the lack of souvenirs in the Caucasus, that is, until they get to the Vernisage.
Our shopping urges satisfied, we continued our day's touring with a trip north to Saghmosavank Monastery, followed by Ohanavank Monastery. Some people joked about feeling "churched out" by this point in the journey. It's a fair observation, and a reality that people should be ready for when visiting the Caucasus, or at least Georgia and Armenia: there are hundreds of churches and monasteries and one can be overwhelmed by the amount of church stops that are made. Heading south again toward Yerevan, we stopped in the town of Ashtarak for dinner at a local resort. With an outdoor mainstage, a collection of wild animals and a sprawling, well-maintained property with adjoining hotel and banquet facilities, this restaurant was anything but ordinary. The Kasakh River cut through the property and though we ate indoors, the atrium-style dining room and surrounding tall trees made us feel like we were outdoors.
The next morning, we boarded the bus for our last full day in Armenia. Heading northeast of the city, we made our way to Dilijan, a town the locals like to call the "Switzerland of Armenia," as it was once a popular spa destination and the architecture there resembles that of Swiss chalets. On the way back to Yerevan, we stopped for lunch at a peninsula on Lake Sevan, a high-altitude lake and popular summer resort for locals. Quite appropriately, our main course for lunch was fresh fish from the lake, which was a huge hit. After lunch, we wandered around the peninsula for a while, taking pictures and enjoying the fresh air until it was time to return to the capital. That evening, we left for an early dinner, but before arriving at the restaurant, we stopped for a tour of the Sergey Parajanov House Museum. A director and artist best known for his 1968 film, The Color of Pomegranates, Parajanov spent the last years of his life in Yerevan and remains a controversial figure in art and cinema today. At the Parajanov Museum, we enjoyed a private tour followed by a champagne reception in the courtyard. We thanked our hosts and continued onward to enjoy our final meal together at a restaurant in the center of Yerevan. Over dinner, we gave toasts to a successful journey through the Caucasus and wished each other luck in our future travels.
Photos from this leg of the tour (click to enlarge): |
