Bruce Malashevich Travel Blog:
In the Eye of the Taiga
MIR client Bruce Malashevich convinced a few intrepid travelers to join him on a cruise to the Arctic Circle on Russia's mighty Lena River. Here is his engaging account:
Getting There
Several years ago I dreamed of a journey down the River Lena into northeastern Siberia from Yakutsk, literally the coldest city on earth in the winter months and capital of the "Sakha" ("Yakutia" in Russian) Republic of the Russian Federation. I was inspired by explorer C.W. Guseville's book, Great Current Running. Guseville made the excursion in the late l980s, after the Soviet authorities opened what had been an "off-limits zone" for tourists since the 1920s. With the river Lena and its shores now open to the world, I decided to repeat the journey on the contemporary river boat, the Mikhail Svetlov. For readers who yearn for exotic travel and pristine scenery without personal danger or extreme discomfort, this should be your next trip.
Although I am comfortable in Russian, I did not want to go alone. My family politely refused me, as did almost all of my friends, but I found two who were game (my age, 50+) along with their respective 20-something sons. I have been to Russia many times in various capacities. It was a new experience for my sputniki ("travel companions" in Russian), however, and I was anxious for them to share my fascination with the country. Our journey turned out to be a magical tour for all concerned.
We flew non-stop from Washington-Dulles to Moscow via United Airlines. During our brief stopover in Russia's capital, we toured Red Square and St. Basil's Cathedral. We experienced a traditional Russian Orthodox vespers service, explored the Kremlin, saw Peter the Great's self-made boots and the extraordinary crown jewels, and had a look at Lenin, whose body remains preserved under glass. We then retired to the five-star National Hotel, from which Lenin proclaimed the founding of the Soviet Union in 1918. Judging by today's rates, he lived well.
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